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L’Histoire de Mode~Condé Nast

 

Condé Montrose Nast

(March 26, 1873 – September 19, 1942) Nast was the founder of Condé Nast Publications, a leading American magazine publisher known for publications such as Vanity Fair, Vogue and The New Yorker.

 

Named for his uncle Condé L. Benoist, Condé Montrose Nast was born

in New York City to a family of Midwestern origin. His father,

William F. Nast (son of the German-born Methodist leader William Nast) was an

unsuccessful broker and inventor who had also served as U.S. attaché in Berlin.

His mother, the former Esther A. Benoist, was a daughter of pioneering St. Louis

banker Louis Auguste Benoist and a descendant of a prominent

French family that emigrated to Canada and

thence to Missouri.

He had three siblings: Louis, Ethel, and Estelle.

Nast’s aunt financed his studies at Georgetown University,

where he graduated in 1894. He went on to earn a law

degree from Washington University in St. Louis in 1897.

Nast did not take well to law, and upon graduation he got a job

working for a former classmate as advertising manager for Collier’s

Weekly (1898–1907). Over the course of a decade he increased

the advertising revenue 100-fold. He published books and Lippincott’s

Monthly Magazine with Robert M. McBride (McBride, Nast & Co.).

After leaving Collier’s Nast bought Vogue, then a small

New York society magazine, transforming it into America’s

premier fashion magazine.

He then turned Vanity Fair into a sophisticated general interest publication,

with the help of his friend Frank Crowninshield, who was editor and a major influence for

more than 20 years. It published many new and high quality writers, as well as

displaying reproductions of modern art.

Nast eventually owned a stable of magazines that included

House & Garden, British, French, and Argentine editions of Vogue,

Jardins des Modes, and Glamour (the last magazine added to the group while he was alive).

While other publishers simply focused on increasing the number of magazines in

circulation, Nast targeted groups of readers by income level or common

interest. Among his staffers were Edna Woolman Chase,

who served as the editor in chief of Vogue; and

Dorothy Parker and Robert Benchley.

Nearly ruined in the Great Depression as many others were, Nast

spent his last years struggling to regain his early prosperity.

Condé Nast died in 1942 and is interred at Gate of Heaven Cemetery in Hawthorne,

New York. His grave is located in Section 25 of the cemetery,

near Babe Ruth and Billy Martin.

Condé Nast Publications:

List of Current Publications:

# Vogue
# W
# WWD
# Style
# Glamour
# Allure
# Self
# Nutrition Data
# Teen Vogue
# GQ
# Details
# Architectural Digest
# Brides
# Lucky
# FN
# Golf Digest
# Golf World
# Vanity Fair
# Bon Appétit
# Epicurious
# Condé Nast Traveler
# Concierge
# Jaunted
# Hotel Chatter
# Vegas Chatter
# Wired
# Reddit
# Ars Technica
# Parade
# The New Yorker

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L’Histoire de Mode~Fashion Photography

 

 

Virginia Oldoini, Countess di Castiglione in a photo by Pierre-Louise Pierson (c. 1863/66)

 

Fashion Photography

 

Fashion photography is a genre of photography devoted

to displaying clothing and other fashion items. Fashion photography

is most often conducted for advertisements or fashionmagazines such

as Vogue, Vanity Fair, or Allure. Over time, fashion photography has

developed its own aesthetic in which the clothes and fashions are

enhanced by the presence of exotic locations or accessories.

Photography was developed in the 1830s, but the earliest popular technique, the

daguerreotype, was unsuitable for mass printing. In 1856, Adolphe Braun

published a book containing 288 photographs of Virginia Oldoini, Countess di Castiglione,

a Tuscan noblewoman at the court of Napoleon III. The photos depict her in her

official court garb, making her the first fashion model.

In the first decade of the 20th century, advances in

halftone printing allowed fashion photographs to be featured

in magazines. Fashion photography made its first appearance in

French magazines such as La mode practique. In 1909, Condé Nast took

over Vogue magazine and also contributed to the beginnings of fashion

photography. In 1911, photographer Edward Steichen was “dared” by

Lucien Vogel, the publisher of Jardin des Modes and La Gazette du Bon Ton,

to promote fashion as a fine art by the use of photography. Steichen

then took photos of gowns designed by couturier Paul Poiret.

These photographs were published in the April 1911 issue of

the magazine Art et Décoration. According to Jesse Alexander,

This is “…now considered to be the first ever modern fashion

photography shoot. That is, photographing the garments in such

a way as to convey a sense of their physical quality as well as

their formal appearance, as opposed to simply illustrating the object.”

At this time, special emphasis was placed on staging the shots, a process

first developed by Baron Adolf de Meyer, who shot his models in natural

environments and poses. Vogue was followed by its rival, Harper’s Bazaar, and

the two companies were leaders in the field of fashion photography throughout

the 1920s and 1930s. House photographers such as Edward Steichen,

George Hoyningen-Huene, Horst P. Horst and Cecil Beaton transformed

the genre into an outstanding art form. Europe, and especially

Germany, was for a short time the leader

in fashion photography.

But now with that change in time every country has taken

considerable measures to promote the field of photography.

In the mid 1940s as World War II approached, the focus

shifted to the United States, where Vogue and Harper’s continued

their old rivalry. House photographers such as Irving Penn,

Martin Munkacsi, Richard Avedon, and Louise Dahl-Wolfe would

shape the look of fashion photography for the following decades.

Richard Avedon revolutionized fashion photography — and redefined

the role of the fashion photographer — in the post-World War II era

with his imaginative images of the modern woman. Today, his work is being

exhibited in the Norton Museum in West Palm Beach, FL. This exhibition features

more than 200 works and spans Avedon’s entire career, including vintage

prints, contact sheets, and original magazines from Harper’s Bazaar,

Vogue and The New Yorker.

The artists abandoned their rigid forms for a much freer style. In 1936,

Martin Munkacsi made the first photographs of models in sporty poses at the beach.

Under the artistic direction of Alexey Brodovitch, the Harper’s

Bazaar quickly introduced this new style into its magazine.

In postwar London, John French pioneered a new form

of fashion photography suited to reproduction in

newsprint, involving where possible reflected

natural light and low contrast.

After the deaths of Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton and Herb Ritts,

some of today’s most famous fashion photographers are Patrick Demarchelier, Steven Meisel,

Mario Testino, Peter Lindbergh and Annie Leibovitz.