Harem trousers are women’s baggy long pants tapered
at the ankle, with side flaps on the hip that button at the waist area.
Harem pants, which originated in India, are like a cross between
a skirt and a pair of skinny jeans. The legs, from the knees down,
are fitted. The crotch area is loose and baggy as if it were cut to be
a skirt. Traditional harem pants can be extremely large and baggy,
with a very wide and full fit, very roomy, loose fitting, oversized,
puffy, spacious, with elastic in waist and at ankles, and with the
crotch below the knee almost to the ground. Harem pants are
commonly worn with a pleated skirt – a short skirt that covers
the top portion of the harem pants. Both harem pants and pleated
skirts are commonly used in belly dancing. There are resources
that show various forms of pleated skirts and explain how they are created.
They’ve also emerged as a “modern” version of harem pants made
popular in the late 1980s with MC Hammer. They are intended to be made
more fashionable and less fabric requirement. Similar pants are also known
as dimije, tshalvar, schalwar, salwar kameez, kaccha, patiala salwar,
shintijan, sirwal, sharovary, Turkish trousers, aladdin pants, balloon pants,
drop crotch pants, pantaloons, zouave, pluderhose and pumphose.
Are also known as side hoops are women’s undergarments
worn in the 18th century to extend the width of the skirts at
the side while leaving the front and back flat. This provided a
flat panel where boldly scaled woven patterns or rich embroidery
could be fully appreciated.The style originated in Spanish
court dress of the 17th century,familiar in portraits by Velázquez.
The fashion spread to France and from there to the rest of
Europe after c. 1718-1719, after some Spanish dresses had been
displayed in Paris. By mid-18th century it had been developed into the
robe à la française, which ensured that a woman took up three times
as much space as a man and always presented an imposing spectacle.
At their most extreme, in the French court of Marie Antoinette,
could extend the skirt several feet at each side. By the 1780s, panniers
were normally worn only to very formal gowns and within court fashion. The name
comes from panniers, a French term for wicker baskets (paniers in current
French) slung on either side of a pack animal. It is also
the name of a GWR 0-6-0 Tank engine with an iconic
Mary Quant is a British fashion designer who was
instrumental in the mod fashion movement and one of the designers
who took credit for inventing the miniskirt and hot pants.
Born to Welsh parents, Quant went to Blackheath High School
then studied illustration at Goldsmiths College before taking a career
with a couture milliner. She is also famed for her work on pop art in fashion.
In November 1955, she teamed up with her husband, Alexander
Plunkett-Green, and a former solicitor, Archie McNair, to open
a clothes shop on the Kings Road in London called Bazaar.
Bazaar’s best sellers were small white plastic collars to brighten
up black dresses or t-shirts. Black stretch stockings were also popular.
Following the positive reaction to a pair of “mad house pyjamas”
designed for the opening, and dissatisfied with the variety
of clothes available to her, Quant decided to make her
own range of clothing. Initially working solo,
she was soon employing a handful of machinists,
and by 1966 she was working with 18
different manufacturers concurrently.
The miniskirt, which she is arguably most famous for,
became one of the defining fashions of the 1960s.
The miniskirt was developed separately by André Courrèges
and John Bates, and there is disagreement as to who
came up with the idea first. Like most fashion,
the short- and ever-shorter skirt was evolving
already among individual fashion-minded young women:
The designers who adapted it just helped spread the style and,
in Quant’s case, gave it a name. Mary Quant named the
miniskirt after her favorite make of car, the Mini. She
loved the car so much, she had one designed especially for her.
In addition to the miniskirt, Mary Quant is often credited
with inventing the coloured and patterned tights that tended
to accompany the garment, although these are also
attributed to Cristobal Balenciaga or John Bates.
Much of his work is associated with the movement to
redefine the female fashionable shape, removing
excessive ruffles and frills and using rich fabrics in
simple but flattering outlines.He is credited as the first
designer to put labels onto the clothing he manufactured.
Worth gave his customers luxurious materials and
meticulous fit. Rather than let the customer dictate
the design, as had previously been dressmaking practice,
four times a year he displayed model dresses at fashion
shows. His patronesses would pick a model, which
would then be sewn in fabrics of their choice and
tailored to their figure. Worth became so popular
that he had to turn customers away. He was the
first courturier and considered more of an artist
than an aritsan. Worth and Bobergh shut down
during the Franco-Prussian War and re-opened
in 1871, without Bobergh, as the House of Worth.
He left the business to his sons, one, Gaston, of whom is
the Founder of Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.
The House of Worth eventually closed in 1956 after
taken over by Jeanne Paquin.
House of Worth also had a
successful line of make-up
and perfumes, some
can be found
Although I’d love to just write about Mr. Worth to the ends
of Earth, this is afterall a blog & most people are like rats on crack so
I must keep it short. However, the link to the wiki page is connected
to his name. I am just going to sum it up for you right here. I was
obsessed with the man in college because of one of my
instructors, JS (I don’t know if I
have permission to
post her name).
Charles Frederick Worth was born in England, 13 October 1825.
He worked for several London drapery shops prior to moving to
Paris in 1846. His big break came when he was hired by a famous
Parisian drapery house where he met his wife, Marie Vernet, one
of the houses models. (At this time models were used strictly for
draping shawls, hats, and other accessories of the time.) He began
making dresses for her & other women began to ask him to make
copies for them. Worth began using his wife as his in house model
in which she would be used for both samples and showings within
the boutique, as result Marie Vernet became the world’s first Super
Model (Take that Janice Dickinson!!). This gained him fame and
he caught the attention of Eugénie de Montijo a.k.a Empress
Eugénie, wife of Napolean III (the French emperor). Eventually
he made the garments for the rest of her court. The next patron
to his talent was Pauline von Metternich, Princess of Austria.
Patrons came from New York and Boston came to see his
work and buy them.